Watch Review | IWC Portuguese

IWC first introduced the grande complication 20 years ago ,as an experiment to bring together the highest horological complications in one wristwatch but still make it wearable to the average user. In SIHH industry fair this year , the company introduced the new Portuguese Grande Complication , a first in a Portuguese case ,powered by the classic 79091 calibre chronograph movement with automatic winding and aggregate time recording up to 12 hours. The newly minted Portuguese Grande Complication also houses a chronograph , a minute repeater , a perpetual calendar with a 4 digit indication which displays the year , decade, century and millennium , and lastly a perpetual moon phase display with just a single day's deviation from the actual lunar cycle every 122 years ,which once set, requires no further intervention on the part of the user until year 2100.

The Portuguese Grande Complication case measure at 45mm in diameters, 16.5 in height and is water resistant to 30 meters, which is of substantial note , especially for a minute repeater watch with a slide piece, traditionally this kind of timepiece are protected only against humidity but not against fluids of any nature, but not so in this Grande Complication wristwatch . With a fresh new face , the shaped sapphire crystal with its cambered edge protects the distinctive silvered dial with its applied red gold Arabic hour markers, as well as a central engraved section which mimics the globe with its degrees of latitude and longitude positioned in the correct 23.4-degree angle of inclination of the terrestrial axis. All important tools for exploration and discovery are engraved on the case back, and is fitted with a hand sewn brown alligator leather strap and a massive folding clasp in 18 karat red gold which bears the famous “Probus Scafusia” motto of the company . The timepiece will be limited to 50 piece annually due to enormous amount of work needed to complete each movement.

Portuguese Grande Complication(Ref. IW3774)

Features

Grande Complication with 657 mechanical components, automatic chronograph movement, perpetual calendar with display of the day, date, month and the complete year in four digits, perpetual moon phase, minute repeater, small hacking seconds, engraving of a sextant on the case back

Movement

Calibre: 79091
Beats: 28,800/h
Jewels: 75
Power reserve: 44 h
Winding: automatic

Case

Materials: watch and folding clasp in 18 ct red gold, silver-plated dial, dark brown alligator leather strap with 18 ct red gold stitching
Glass: sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
Water-resistant: 30 meters
Diameter: 45mm
Height: 16.5mm

Priced : $ 217,000

Watch Review | Baume & Mercier

The new Classima Executives Magnum XXL Chronograph Black PVD ,one of the stand outs from Baume & Mercier at 2010 SIHH . A stainless steel case coated in black PVD , a two level dial with stark indices and skeletonized hands, along with chronograph pushers that also protect the crown. Inside this sleek sports watch is a self winding ETA 7753 movement, that features Glucydur balance which oscillates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and has a power reserve of 48 hours.

The Baume & Mercier Classima Executives collection doesn't come up short in size . At 44mm in diameters and 15.6 in height, along with a large open dial that seems to flow up to the edge of a narrow bezel, gives the timepiece a illusion of size . The dial is equipped with a rapidly adjustable date aperture and a small second sub dial, while the straight riveted " applique" rhodium plated hour indexes are a perfect fit to the skeletonized hour and minute hand. The amount of superluminova applied to the watch ensures readability in the dark .

Baume & Mercier has fit the Magnum XXL Chronograph Black PVD steel watch with a fluted screw down crown adorned with the Phi symbol to optimize protection of the movement against water, dust and other damaging elements. This guarantees water resistance of 200 meters, a debt perfectly suitable for divers . A screw down case back which features a triangular "porthole" with a sapphire exhibition window to show off the oscillating weight adorned with "Côtes de Genève" has also been included. The watch is fitted with a vulcanized rubber strap enhanced by a speed inspired 3 groove pattern for extra measure.

Details

Reference : M0A08853
Movement : Automatic (ETA 7753)
Oscillating weight decorated with « Côtes de Genève »
Function : Chronograph, date at 6 o’clock
Size : 44mm
Thickness: 15.6mm
Decorated case and push-pieces made of sand-blasted & satin-finished PVD steel
Circular satin-finished PVD steel bezel
Screw-down fluted crown and case back
Triangular sapphire crystal case back
Dial : Black
Anti-glare sapphire crystal
Bracelet : Black vulcanized rubber strap
Adjustable triple folding buckle
Water-resistance: 200m
Price : $ 5,490

Watch Review | Hermes Cape Cod

Hermes is a well recognized luxury brand , has more than 170 years design experience and nearly 4 decades in watch sales yet they are known for their clothes ,scarves, bags and not watches . But that actually may change, as their latest watch selection appears to be a step up in the world of haute horlogerie.

Shown in Baseworld 2010 the Hermes Cape Cod Tourbillon , a gorgeous looking timepiece with the tourbillon movement display just below the central hands . A mechanical hand-wound tourbillon movement Hermes Calibre H 8930 VMF, 21,600 vibrations per hour,consist of 237 parts including 30 jewels and has a seven days power reserve .This watch comes in rose or white gold and the dials is either silvered or grey . The case is rectangular , 37.5mm x 39.5mm . The central hands show the hours minutes and seconds. Above is the power reserve indicator . This watch is fitted with a black or matte havana alligator leather strap and comes in a limited edition form Hermes .

Watch Review | Chopard L.U.C 150

In 2010 Chopard celebrated their 150th anniversary ,by releasing L.U.C 150 ”all in one” , this gorgeous timepiece is equipped with their latest invention the L.U.C 4TQE calibre, it is a veritable showcase of the brands in house movement manufacturing expertise ,the calibre is chronometer certified by the Controle Officiel Suisse des Chronometres, houses four barrels giving it a 7 day power reserve, and is graced by the prestigious Poincon de geneve quality hallmark. The movement powers displays of the hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillon , a perpetual calendar showing a 24 hour indication, the day of the week , the date through a window, the month , leap year , power reserve , equation of time , sunrise and sunset times and moon phase ; all of this composed of 516 parts and 42 rubies beating at a frequency of 28,800 vibration per hour.
A beautiful timepiece to say the least for the L.U.C 150 ”all in one” ,to accommodate every complication while still resulting in this “classic” look the watchmakers of Chopard had to make use of not only the front of the dial, but also of the case back. In addition to the hours, minutes, small seconds on the tourbillion at 6 o’clock position, the gold guilloche-worked primary dial displays the perpetual calendar with 24 hour indication and the days of the week at 9 o’clock ,the large date window at 12 o’clock and the month and the leap year indication at 3 o’clock. The equation of time indication resides within the second dial at the back , which is also flourished with gold guilloche. The power reserve , 24 hour day/night indication , sunrise and sunset times, as well as the astronomical orbital moon phase display depicting the dance of the heavenly bodies ,set to coincide with Geneva, also make their home at the back of the watch. The 46mm timepiece is crafted in white gold , water resistant to 30 meters and is fitted with a alligator leather strap with a gold pin buckle .

Ref. 161925-1001 white gold 15-piece limited edition
Ref. 161925-5001 rose gold 15-piece limited edition
Ref. 171925-1001 white gold with bezel set with baguette-cut diamonds15-piece limited edition

Watch Review | Jean Richard

In SIHH 2010 Jean Richard announce that their watch now all came with in-house movements. A step that shows their continuing devotion to improving their line even further . The company has been making watches for a long time , and the brand has progressed to their latest step which brings them that much closer to being a manufactory.

Jean Richard watches are known to be attractive and functional, and their latest invention is the Diverscope JR1000 Goldwaters, a dive watch that is of traditional elegance and modern materials. The timepiece is mixed with both pink gold and vulcanized rubber, and is water resistance to 300 meters. Vulcanized rubber was originally developed for use in the automobile industry ,the one that tires are made of , A bold move on Jean Richard’s part ,this allows weight reduction in the timepiece, and is also resistant to scratching and abrasion ,which are two things that can be expected to happen when diving.

The Diverscope JRR1000 Goldwaters is powered by JR1000 caliber, a self winding mechanical movement has 28,800 vibration per hour, 27 jewels and 48 hours power reserve. The dial is matte black with luminiscent arabic numerals and indexes . The hands are plated in pink gold with luminiscent accents for readability underwater. The timepiece is 43mm in diameter and is actually made of stainless steel covered in vulcanized rubber. The crown shields at either side are made of black PVD coated titanium for light weight. There are two 18k pink gold screw down crowns at the sides , the one at 3 o'clock position sets the hour and minute, as well as the date. The 9 o'clock crown positions the internal bidirectional bezel,adjusting this crown records the remaining diving time. The watch comes with two straps, the black rubber strap and the alligator leather strap which is also coated in black rubber.

Watch Review | Breguet 7047 Tradition

More than two centuries after Abraham Louis Breguet started his company , the Swiss inventor's creations remain a vital part of modern horology and Breguet's influences can be seen today in everything from cases and complications to decorations and dials.

In 2010 the company introduced the Tradition 7047 ,Mixing centuries old watchmaking techniques with that of the most radical horological advancements, this new timepiece is encased in platinum , as are the soldered platinum lugs with sewed through bars for the strap , the three dimension open structures is protected by a domed sapphire crystal .The caliber 569 tourbillon movement is treated with an anthracite- gray colored metal compound ,the finish of which is the result of a darker than ruthenium platinum alloy that has gone through a new and improved "electro deposition" process.

The silvered 18k gold small dial is located at the 7 o'clock position that is flourished by a hand executed engine turned pattern and is finished by a chapter ring with roman numerals. To the right of the dial is the marvelous fusee-and- chain mechanism ,which maintains a constant force for as long as the watch is running, and resulted to an even flow of power to the watch mechanism and consistent rate precision regardless of whether the watch is fully wound , or nearly exhausted of power. Four patent cover the large tourbillon resonator at 1 o'clock , one for a titanium balance and three relating to Breguet silicon balance springs.
The caliber 569 has a 50 hours power reserve and the indicator is fitted directly on the barrel. These timepiece is equipped with a sapphire case back and has a water resistant to 30 meters ,all of these is fitted on a crocodile leather strap and a platinum buckle with the Breguet signature.

Watch Review| Millenary Carbon One

Audemars Piguet is known to many as one of the top three watch maker along with Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin , in 2010 the company release a new collection on their Millenary line the Carbon one Tourbillon Chronograph , over the years , the Millenary collection has come to its own and many have come to recognize the significance and beauty of the Millenary timepiece

Designed with motor sports in mind, the Carbon One has a completely 100% in house creation movement ,the Calibre 2884 , equipped with a tourbillon chronograph and a 10 days power reserve ,all encased in the oval shaped of the Millenary timepiece that is limited to 120 pieces only .

The Carbon One features an open worked dial which clearly shows the multiple displays of the watch with its many parts layered on various levels. Blackened steel is used for the bridges on the underside and carbon for the mainplate . Black high tech materials are also used for the Carbon One’s exterior such as the case made of forged carbon, an ultra light and resistant material exclusively develop by the manufacture.

A sporty watch , the Millenary Carbon One is design for connoisseurs of haute Horlogerie with a taste for fine mechanical engineering but who also has the need of elegance as well as predilection for cutting edge design.


Millenary Carbon One Tourbillon Chronograph (Ref . 26152AU.00.D002CR.01)

Movement:

manually wound Calibre 2884 ; tourbillion and twin barrel ; up to 240 hour power reserve(10 days) ; 21600 vph, 30 jewels ; 336 parts ; all parts decorated by hand ; carbon mainplate ; bridges in eloxed aluminium and blackened steel.

Functions:

hour, minutes ;chronograph ;power reserve indicator.

Case:

forged carbon with black ceramic bezel crown and pushbutton , 47x42mm ; cambered antireflective sapphire crystal ; titanium caseback fitted with sapphire crystal ; water resistance to 20 meters.

Dial:

openworked to reveal the movement ; white hour markers with luminescent coating ; blackened luminescent hands.

Strap:

large-square –scaled hand sewn crocodile leather ; blackened titanium Audemars Piguet folding clasp.

Suggested Price:

$268,100

Watch Review| Omega Constellation

In 2010 Omega added two elegant ladies Constellation to its line. A classy grey dial and an exquisite white/silver dial. This 35mm timepieces is among the stars in the recently redesigned Constellation ,it has a blending timeless dials with sparkling diamonds.

The white Constellation Ladies Quartz 35 mm timepiece with a polished 18 Ct red gold case matching a white alligator leather strap . An ideal accessory for any wardrobe ,the eleven single-cut diamond hour markers are graduated, increasing in size on each side of the dial from the round facetted date window at six o’clock. Its dramatic brushed 18 Ct red gold bezel features Roman numerals coated with white Super-LumiNova. The silver lacquered dial features a supernova pattern which explodes from the Constellation star

The other elegant timepiece that is recently been released in the Constellation line, is the grey shaded dial in 35mm with a black alligator leather strap. Encased in matt stainless steel the striking watch has a bezel paved with 34 full-cut diamonds while the eleven single-cut diamond hour markers, which are increasingly graduated from the round facetted date window at six o’clock, are in sharp relief to the supernova pattern on the dial.

Both the shaded grey and the white models are powered by OMEGA’s quartz calibre 1532. Their vertically-brushed casebacks are embossed with the Constellation Observatory medallion. The timepiece is enhanced with white Super-Luminova painted hour and minute hands, scratchproof domed sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on the inside. The ladies Constellation is like a beautiful stars at night that is lasting and eternal.

(ref. #123.18.35.60.56.001)

Movement
- Omega calibre 1532
- Quartz movement
- Battery life: 25 months (EOL)
Display
- Central hour-minute-seconds hands, date window at 6H

Material
- Case: stainless steel
- Bracelet: alligator
Case- Diameter: 35.00 mm
- Height: 10.11 mm
- Water resistant up to: 100 m (330 ft, 10 bar)
- Polished case with polished claws
- Polished bezel set with diamonds
- Polished crown embossed with ?
- Domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal; anti-reflective treatment inside
- 4-screw fixed caseback, vertically-brushed and embossed with the Constellation Observatory medallion

Dial
- Supernova pattern starting from the star in shaded grey
- Diamond indexes in increasing diameter- Rhodium-plated applied ?
- Constellation star and date window facetted as diamond cutting

Hands
Rhodium-plated polished facetted hands; white Super-LumiNova
on hour/minute hands

Bracelet
- Screw-fixed alligator strap; polished stainless steel foldover clasp
- Fitting : 24mm on case, 18mm on clasp

(ref. #123.53.35.60.52.001)

Movement
- Omega calibre 1532
- Quartz movement
- Battery life: 25 months (EOL)

Display
- Central hour-minute-seconds hands, date window at 6H

Material
- Case: 18 Ct red gold
- Bracelet: alligator

Case
- Diameter: 35.00 mm
- Height: 10.11 mm
- Water resistant up to: 100 m (330 ft, 10 bar)
- Polished case with polished claws
- Brushed bezel with white Super-LumiNova Roman numerals
- Polished crown embossed with ?
- Domed scratch-resistant sapphire crystal; neutral tint anti-reflective treatment on both sides
- 4-screw fixed caseback, vertically-brushed and embossed with the Constellation Observatory medallion

Dial
- Supernova pattern starting from the star in silvery white
- Diamond indexes in increasing diameter
- 18 Ct red gold applied ?
- Constellation star and date window facetted as diamond cutting

Hands
18 Ct red gold polished facetted hands; white Super-LumiNova on hour/minute hands

Bracelet
- Screw-fixed alligator strap; polished 18 Ct red gold foldover clasp
- Fitting : 24mm on case, 18mm on clasp

Specifications
Diamonds (estimate): Dial 11x, single-cut, Ø1.05-1.60mm, totaling 0.10 ct

Watch Review | Calibre de Cartier

Traditional tourbillon carriage is carefully protected between the bridges and main plate, the flying tourbillon of the Calibre de Cartier watch has been designed to enhance its visual appeal, but gives greater exposure to shocks that could disturb its operation. A risky design, yet Cartier skilled watchmaker have mastered this delicate task and ensure each timepiece is rock solid.

Inside the 18k white or pink gold timepiece is calibre 9452 MC, with Geneva Seal. This mechanical manufactured movement with manual winding contains 142 parts including 19 jewels. Driven by the flying tourbillon whose C-shaped carriage indicates the seconds, beats at 21,600 vph and has a power reserve of 50 hours.

Adding to the distinctive nature of this tourbillon, the iconic XII numerals has been enlarge to make it more powerful aesthetic signature for this new creation from the Cartier manufacture.

Calibre de Cartier flying tourbillon watch Calibre 9452 MC

Geneva Seal Case: 18 carat white or pink gold
Diameter: 45 mm
Crown: octagonal, in 18 carat white or pink gold, set with a sapphire cabochon
Crystal: sapphire
Case back: transparent sapphire crystal
Water resistance: 30 metres / 100 feet / 3 bar
Strap: black alligator skin (white gold) or brown alligator skin (pink gold)
Folding clasp: double adjustable, in 18 carat white or pink gold

Calibre 9452 MC flying tourbillon
Movement: Cartier Manufacture, mechanical with manual winding, flying tourbillon, Geneva Seal
Diameter: 24.5 mm
Thickness: 4.5 mm (5.45 mm including the tourbillon)
Number of jewels: 19
Number of components: 142
Frequency: 21,600 vibrations/hour
Power reserve: approx. 50 hours
Individually numbered movement

Watch Review | Piaget

In SIHH 2010 Piaget has presented a true ,masterpiece the Limelight Jazz Party collection . The captivating Piaget Polo Tourbillon watch swings to the beat of technical challenge and creative genius. This one of a kind piece in champleve enamel springs from the age old expertise of enamellers and engravers who work with watchmakers in a celebration of technique and beauty . Indicated by a central disc , the hours become musical notes . The black enamel dial is like the grooves of a vinyl record, and is graced with a flurry of quavers. A jazz player takes shape on the caseback while musical instruments like a Limelight Jazz Party drum kit at the crown, a drum kit and a trumpet at the 3 o'clock position, and a piano and a double bass at the 9 o'clock position.

A true horological tribute to jazz this exclusive timepiece features a circular Côtes de Genève, main plate and bridges circular-grained by hand, beveled and hand-drawn bridges and carriage, blued screws of 18carat white gold and a black Grand Feu enameled case-back. The movement of the watch is a Piaget 608P mechanical hand-wound tourbillon movement featuring 27 jewels, at 21,600 vph and has a 68-hour power reserve. The tourbillon carriage delights the eye with a magic of perfect balance ,which is suspended at the tips of the minutes hand making it looks like free flight, as if disconnected from the movement that drives it. This carriage comes with three titanium bridges and has a weight of 0.2 grams.

Piaget Polo Tourbillon Relatif
18-carat white gold watch with grand feu enamelling according to the champlevé technique
18-carat white gold case and dial, black grand feu enamelling depicting jazz music instruments
Manufacture Piaget 608P mechanical hand-wound tourbillon movement
Movement thickness: 3.28 mm
Movement thickness including hand fitting: 9.14 mm
Casing diameter: 11 1/2''' (ø 25.60 mm)
Number of jewels: 27
Frequency: 21,600 vph
Oscillating organ - diameter of balance: 7.75 mm
Power reserve: approximately 68 hours (double barrel)
Flying tourbillon: the minute hand, which has its center of rotation at the center of the watch, performs one complete rotation per hour. The tourbillon carriage, suspended from the minute hand, spins once per minute on its own axis
Tourbillon carriage: 3 titanium bridges
Weight of the tourbillon carriage: 0.2 g
Finishing: circular Côtes de Genève, mainplate and bridges circular-grained by hand, bevelled and hand-drawn bridges and carriage, blued screws
18-carat white gold and black grand feu enamelled case-back portraying a jazz man
18-carat white gold folding clasp
Black alligator leather strap

Watch Review | Roger Dubuis Excalibur

A large case , a sophisticated crown guard a fluted bezel and a strap with triple lugs that has become Roger Dubuis Excalibur collection hallmark since their lunch in 2005. In 2010 it has clearly matured . The bezel has become more assertive thanks to its more dynamic deeper flutes. The crown guard has become more streamlined and hugs the case middle more snugly.

One of the exclusive collection the company has introduced this year is the Excalibur Ex 45 Bi-retrogade Jumping Date ,has a subtle play of the Arabic numerals , which border the two symmetrical anthracite bi-retrogade dates zones, blends harmoniously with the white gold applique hour markers. The black inner flange , punctuated with Arabic numerals , encircles the dials and gives it its strong character. With a brand new movement , which enriches the manufacture's range of products , is housed in white gold case . The hand sewn alligator strap is fitted with a white gold folding clasp. this timepiece is limited to 88 pieces.

movement:

self winding mechanical movement 48 jewels , rhodium plated , Cotes de Geneve motif.

Functions:

Bi-retrograde jumping date, hours and minutes display, calendar aligner at 2:00 side

Parts:

294

Thickness:

5.68 millimeters

Pendulum frequency:

28,800 times per hour (4 Hz)

Power reserve:

48 hours

Water Resistance :

50 meters

Price $40,900

Watch Review | Richard Mille RM 017

The Richard Mille RM 017 ultra thin tourbillon may regarded as a follow up on the rectangular case of RM 016,in which the similarities end on the casing only, for the inside the RM 017 has one of the thinnest tourbillon assmblies ever created with a height measuring a mere 8.7mm. Several components have been fashioned out of exotic materials in line with Richard Mille concept of applying techniques and materials found in F-1 and aerospace industry.The RM 017 uses a movement baseplate from carbon nanofiber, (first tested with great success in RM 006,experimental model ) an isotropic composite materials forged under high pressure and temperature that gives it high mechanical ,physical and chemical stability in all environment. The endstone of the tourbillon cage is ceramic to help minimize wear. The screws for the bridge and case are made from grade 5 titanium ensuring the longevity of the watch.

Another innovative features of the RM 017 is its function selector . Similar to a car's gearbox , a push button located at the center of the ceramic crown allows one to select the winding, neutral , hand setting and speed hand setting functions .A turning display located at 3 o'clock shows the selected functions : W (Winding) -N (Neutral) - H(Hands) - S(Speed hand setting). The speed hand setting functions allow for rapidly changing the hour hand independent from the minute hand.

Cutting edge technology combined with elegance and exceptional lines, useful functionality and unmistakable recognition : the RM 017 Flat Tourbillon is Richard Mille Watches personified.

Movement :

mechanical manual winding ultra flat tourbillion 017 caliber with carbon nanofiber baseplate ; approx. 72 hours power reserve; variable inertia balance with overcoil; fast rotating barrel ; ceramic tourbillion endstone ; spline screws in grade 5 titanium for the bridges and case; winding barrel and third pinion’s teeth with central involute profile.

Functions:

hour minutes ;function selector with indicator.

Case:

18k white gold ,rectangular anatomically curved; 49.8x38x8.7mm ; assembled with 12 spline screws in grade 5 titanium; sapphire crystal front and back with double sided antiglare coating; water resistance to 50 meters.

Dial:

sapphire with double sided antiglare treatment; protected with eight silicon braces in grooved edges.

Strap:

crocodile attached via titanium screws to the case; with matching buckle individually engraved with model number.

Watch Review| Omega Aqua Terra

Simple and elegant are to be describe of this great design. The Co Aixial escapement can function with literally no lubrication whatsoever, thereby eliminating the shortcomings of a traditional lever escapement.It utilizes the use of radial friction rather than sliding friction at the impulse surfaces therefore reducing friction. This result in longer service intervals and greater accuracy.

During Basel 2010, we saw the release of the Omega new Aqua Terra annual calendar available in bi color( red gold /stainless steel) and stainless steel variants. Inside this elegant timepiece is the Co- Axial calibre 8611 ,which was first seen in the Omega Hour Vision Hour calendar,has a power reserve of 55 hours. In addition to the annual calendar functions that only requires date adjustments once a year(during every 1st of march), its date change is instant. The calibre 8611 movement features the new "Si 14" silicon balance spring that is virtually non magnetic mounted on an Omega free sprung balance. Omega improved the movement further with anti wear DLC coated twin barrels and zirconium slide bearings coupled to its winding mechanism.

The new Aqua Terra annual calendar has a diameter of 43mm and height of 14.5mm. The top sapphire crystal has anti reflective coating on both sides. At the back has also a sapphire crystal that displayed the calibre 8611 .Luxury finishing is applied with monochrome rhodium plated on rotor and bridges (eighteen carat red gold bridges an rotor for the bi color) in Geneva waves in arabesque pattern.The screw ,barrels and balance wheels are blackened, that offers a nice contrast to the metal polish of the bridges.

The Aqua Terra annual calendar is the next step for the 8601 calibre watch revolution that has been taking place at Omega. Robust engineering coupled with stable precision is the basis of this fine movement. In its early life the 8601 movement had been garnering account from its owners with regards to outstanding accuracy and real life timing precision. The simplistic yet magnificently crafted timepiece is a testament to Omega reputation for timeless reliability at its price point.

Watch Review | Patek Philippe 7071R

The Patek Philippe 7071R is an extremely alluring ladies timepiece ,a squarish with rounded corners and soft sides that make it look and feel like it was designed for the modern lady. Inspired by the Art Deco watches which comes in at a width of 35mm and a length of 39mm, with two dial choices available , silver opaline or opaline black dial with guilloched flame pattern. The black dial has the added intricacy and beauty of the guilloche, while the silvery white dial is simple, elegant and readable at the same time. Two chrono subdials are slightly offset beneath the center axis of the large leaf shape hour and minute hands, for the small seconds and 30 minute counter. Indices are roman numerals , brown for the white dial and applied 18k rose gold for the black dial. The subdial details follow the same color choices. The case only comes in 18k rose gold , and has sapphire crystal front and back .

Inside this very alluring timepiece is the Calibre CH 29-535 PS (with 6 new patent behind it), a traditional column wheel controlled mechanism , which took more than half a decade to develop .The new mechanism offers a large chronograph hand , a seconds sub dial and an accurate jumping 30 minute counter. The Calibre CH 29-535 PS has a power reserve of 65 hours in regular operation and will go up to 58 hours if the chronograph is activated.

The six patents behind CH 29-535 PS:

• An optimized tooth profile - eliminates the risk of hand jump in both directions when starting a measurement , limits chronograph hand quiver, increase energy transmission efficiency , and reduces friction as well as wear in the movement.
• Improved penetration adjustment between the clutch and the chronograph wheel - this new system enables a more precise adjustment of the penetration between the clutch and the chronograph wheel.
• Improved synchronization between the clutch lever and blocking lever - This simplifies and improves the precision adjustment of the control sequences because watchmakers only has to adjust one point instead of two as was the case in the past.
• A pierced - out minute - counter cam - to prevent abrupt blocking in response to the reset command and therefore considerably reduced hand quiver.
• Self setting return to zero hammers - This makes it unnecessary to mechanically adjust the minute hammer function and thus increase the reliability of the mechanism .
• Hammers pivoted between jewels - This assures that the hammers remain precisely aligned in the vertical direction and improves the smoothness of their rotation.

Details of Patek Philippe 7071R:

Movement:

CH 29-535 PS, manually wound , 33 jewels, 28,800 vph,65 hour power reserve

Complication :

Chronograph

Case material:

Rose gold, 18 carat

Transparent case back:

Yes, sapphire crystal

Case size:

39 mm x 35 mm

Case height:

10.5 mm

Dial:

silver opaline or opaline black dial with guilloched flame pattern

Water resistance:

50 meters

Strap:

Hand-stitched alligator leather, matt white or brown with white stitching ,18-mm prong buckle in 18K rose gold

Crystal:

Sapphire, domed

Price range: €50,000

Watch Review | Blancpain L-evolution

Blancpain continues its inexorable pursuit of innovation in the realm of haute horologerie,the watchmaker has trained its extensive expertrise on writing a new chapter in its history, titled "L-evolution".The manufactured based in Le Brassus ,Switzerland ,introduced the L-evolution with a quartet of timepiece: the Tourbillon , Automatique 8 Jours, Moon phase 8 Jours, and Alarm GMT. In addition to the family name , they also share sleek resemblance with 43.5 cases.


Automatique 8 Jours

An appropriate introduction to the L-evolution is the Automatique 8 Jours, contains the new movement Caliber 13R5 ,that delivers eight days (192 hours) of power reserve. To heighten the movement's precision , the company adds tiny screws to its balance rim , which can be finely tuned. The new caliber measures 30.6mm x 4.57mm and has 36 jewels and 243 components.

This timepiece has a dial with a cut-out central opening that reveals the baseplate’s Côtes de Genève decoration. But the first things you’re likely to notice are the oversized , three-dimensional Arabic 3 and 9. The case is fitted with new detachable lugs, a feature that facilitates attaching a metal bracelet. This timepiece is available in steel or red gold versions with a rubber-lined black or brown strap in alligator leather and a triple-blade folding clasp.

Movement :

automatic caliber 13R5, 8 days power reserve, 36 jewels, 243 components

Functions:

center seconds , date at 6 (can be change at anytime without damaging the mechanism), power reserve indicator at 12.

Case:

steel or red gold, 43.5 mm , thickness 13.4mm ,sapphire crystal caseback, water resistance 100 meters.

Strap:

rubber -lined black alligator leather , rubber- lined brown alligator leather strap.

Priced :$17,300 in steel and $32,600 in red gold.


Moon Phase 8 Jours

This model features Blancpain’s new Caliber 66R9 includes a lunar indicator, complete calendar and power reserve.This new version pairs the movement's mechanism beauty with a multi- level dials decorated with Cotes de Geneve.The dial also features a pair of beveled openings that are used to frame the day of the week and the month. The movement measures 32mm x 7.6mm and has 325 components including 36 jewels.
Movement :

automatic Caliber 66R9 , 8 days power reserve ,36 jewels , 325 components ,flat balance spring , titanium balance with micrometric adjustment screws, high density gold oscillating weight, finely circular grained mainplate , bevelled and polished parts , cotes paraboliques motif, bevelled bridges.

Functions:

small seconds and moonphase at 6 , day and month at 12 , date ring , original date correction system ,power reserve indicator at 12.

Case :

steel or red gold, 43.5 mm , thickness 15.55 mm ,sapphire crystal caseback, water resistance 100 meters.

Strap:

rubber -lined black alligator leather , rubber- lined brown alligator leather strap.

Priced :$22,100 in steel and $37,400 in red gold.


Alarm GMT

Blancpain temps modern travelers with the Alarm GMT , a very elegant design that combines a second time zone display with an alarm . More than practical , the watch highlights the movement’s groundbreaking winding system . unlike similar models that require the alarm to be wound separately, Alarm GMT’s automatic winding mechanism powers the ,movement and alarm simultaneously.

The L-evolution Alarm GMT is powered by Caliber 1241H which was introduced in 2003. This 407-component movement took 4 years to develop. It has twin barrels: one to power the watch and one to power the alarm. The alarm hand and date are interdependent with the local time zone display.

Like the other L-evolution models, the Alarm GMT dial creates a multi-level effect. The lower-level cut-away reveals the underlying vertical Côtes de Genève. On the upper level, a skeletonized cut-out features a small 9 o’clock numeral and a larger 3 o’clock numeral. It also displays the small seconds counter at 6 o’clock, the alarm hour and minute indication at 8 o’clock, as well as the alarm power reserve between 10 and 12 o’clock. The rim of the dial incorporates the 24-hour dual time-zone display.

Movement:

automatic caliber 1241H, 40 hours power reserve , 38 jewels , 407 components, twin barrel , one for rate , one for alarm.

Functions:

small seconds at 6, GMT dual time zone, date at 8(indexed to second time zone, mechanical alarm reserve indicator between 10 and 12 ),power reserve indicator at 1.

Case:

steel or red gold, 43.5 mm , thickness 13.75 mm ,sapphire crystal, water resistance 100 meters.

Strap:

rubber -lined black alligator leather , rubber- lined brown alligator leather strap.

Priced : $23,000 in steel and $38,400 in red gold.


Tourbillon GMT

Lastly the L-evolution Tourbillon GMT , which combines two of today’s most popular complications. This unique timepiece is powered by Blancpain’s new automatic winding Caliber 5025 with 8 day power reserve. L-evolution styling cues are evident in the form of oversized numerals at 3 and 6 and dial cut-outs revealing vertical Côtes de Genève on the baseplate and framing the tourbillon opening and the second time zone display. Available in white or red gold case ,only a limited of 99 pieces will be available in each color .
Movement:

automatic Caliber 5025, 8 day power reserve, 33 jewels ,304 components.

Functions:

double hand date display at 9 , flying tourbillion at 12 ,GMT dual time zone.

Case:

white gold or red gold, 43.5 mm , thickness 13.45 mm ,sapphire crystal caseback , water resistance 100 meters.

Strap:

rubber -lined black alligator leather , rubber- lined brown alligator leather strap.

Priced: $129,500 in red gold and $134,300 in white gold.